Brunnenmarkt & other Viennese culinary adventures

I went to the Brunnenmarkt today, which is a large outdoor market mainly for produce, cheeses, and breads, but also for random clothing and houseware items. While I could have bought the couple of things I needed at a regular grocery store, I wanted to experience this market since several people had recommended it to me.

The best-known market in Vienna is called "Naschmarkt", which comes from the verb "naschen", meaning "to nibble" or "to graze". While the Naschmarkt does offer farm-fresh produce and some of the best Fladenbrot (Turkish bread) and baklava in Vienna, it is starting to lose its character as more and more tourist restaurants and cafes open alongside its more traditional vendors. Its prices have been steadily increasing while bargaining opportunities have been decreasing; essentially, it is turning into a tourist trap.

The Brunnenmarkt, on the other hand, is frequented almost exclusively by native Austrians (and operated almost exclusively by Turks). The prices are much cheaper than the Naschmarkt. It doesn't have any restaurants or cafes, but there are plenty nearby. I wanted to take a photograph of it today, but didn't want to brand myself as a tourist. Maybe I will next time.

Now that I've gone shopping a few times in both markets and grocery stores, I've noticed a few interesting peculiarities:

1. Austrian cucumbers (Gurken) are thinner than, and twice as long as, American cucumbers. They are curved in such a specific manner that people joke that the curve is regulated by the Ministry of Agriculture. They are also slightly sweeter than American cucumbers.

2. Potatoes and onions are nearly impossible to buy individually. They come only in five-pound sacks ("Sackerl" in Austrian). This must be Austria's not-so-subtle hint for people to eat lots of fried potatoes and onions. It's working ... potatoes and onions, preferably paired with some sort of Wurst, is a staple meal for families and restaurants alike.

3. For those of you who read about my experience with arugula-pesto a few weeks ago, you'll be happy to learn that Vienna does indeed sell regular basil pesto. I just wasn't paying attention and grabbed the wrong jar last time. To avoid future mix-ups and to literally spice up my kitchen a bit, I bought a basil plant today. It looks great sitting on the kitchen windowsill and it smells soooo good.

4. Speaking of smelling, I was walking home from the Strassenbahn (trolley) stop on one of my first nights in Vienna when I smelled an unmistakable smell: freshly roasted cocoa. Since then, I've noticed that around 8:00 every night, the entire neighborhood smells like cocoa. Apparently we have a chocolate factory on our street. I just have to find out where.